Royal Naval Dockyards

Ah, Dockyard.  How shall I tackle the blog about Bermuda's Royal Naval Dockyards?  It is the most obvious site to blog about but also the most difficult because there is actually a lot going on there.  It is the first place most cruise ship passengers will see as they all disembark since Dockyard is now the only port for the large cruise ships.  The massive luxury liners of the moment cannot navigate the smaller channel to the Eastern Town of St. George's or into Hamilton, and so all now arrive into Dockyard (The Veedham docked in Hamilton in 2013 but does not seem to be scheduled in 2014 but has promised to come back in 2015).

If you are arriving from North America, you will probably be taken by the "old world charm" of the site, as I was when I first saw the Clocktower Mall.  The Royal Naval Dockyard is the largest fortress on the island, but certainly not the oldest.  Fort St. Catherine has been around since 1612.  Construction on the Royal Naval Dockyard began in 1809, by the British of course, in the years after American won its independence from them.  Bermuda's was a vital trade and military base.  The British military remained at Dockyard in Bermuda until about 1957.  The Clocktower mall may appear broken on one side, but in fact the South tower is a clock and the North Tower has only one arm because it is a tidal clock, which was set each day to mark high tide for sailors.

Royal Naval Dockyard

Dockyard, from another angle, another time

Tourists and locals alike have a lot to do while in Dockyard.  Most of my guests find this to be their one of their favorite experiences on the island.  I always make sure to take them to Dockyard Glassworks and the Bermuda Rum Cake Company.  In this building, one can watch a live glassblowing display, as artisans make animal ornaments, dishes, vases, and more which is really quite interesting.  In addition to what you might expect, they also make colorful jewellery, awesome Christmas decorations (who doesn't want a Christmas ornament with a little gecko sitting on top), and practical glassware.  The Bermuda Rum Cake Company has some free samples -- but only if you are of legal drinking age (for good reason).  Most times people find something at this stop that they absolutely must take home.

The Glassworks artists at work

A little further around the corner and you will find Snorkel Park and the mini golf range.  This area has been developed with the cruise ship passengers in mind, and so is usually too busy for my liking, but it is a fabulous area within walking distance from the ships for shore excursions.  Continuing beyond that you will find the Frog and Onion, a very nice old pub atmosphere with dark wood, candelabras, and it is also Bermuda's only brewery is you wish to sample some local ales.  They also comes in Schooner size.

Dinner at the charming Frog and Onion during Barb's visit

Dev domonstrating the difference between a pint and a schooner

The Dockyards Art Center and the Craft Market have many things to take home, including pink sand jewellery, silver crafted longtails and moongates, banana leaf angels (some of those are on the family Christmas trees at home, I love them), and many other local crafts.  One can also buy delicious pepper jams in various flavours like "Storm Force" or "Hurricane Force."  Or, you could pick up one of my photos if you reeeally wanted to.  My friends Dev and Sue also currently have some of theirs available for sale there.  I always love to stop at the Pastry Shop for a chocolate croissant, and I noticed on my last visit to Dockyard that the shop is doing so well that they have expanded into a little cafe and bar on the upper level on the building that they are in.  The mall has lots of little knick knacks for the visitors, and most cannot resist a purchase at E.R. Aubrey, a local jeweller producing gemstones like the Bermuda Lucky Stone and the Ocean Mist very pretty stones made for the Bermuda market as I understand it.

Dockyard's eco-lawnmowers below the commissioner's house

The real point of Dockyard though, is the museum.  A steal of a deal, the $10 admission get you into the museum, which encompasses what was "The Keep" of the Fort.  The Keep in an old Fort was the area in which the military could make a final stand.  It is usually surrounded by a moat, high and thick walls, a lot of artillery, and everything the soldiers would need to hold off an enemy until reinforcements arrived.  Weapons storage, kitchens, water storage, and in this case, the Commissioner's House was enclosed in the keep.  The museum does a good job of providing information about Bermuda's history, with each building being a different display.  Racing ships in one, sunken treasure from the reef wrecks in another, the military history from the 1600's to the present, the role of Bermuda in WWI and II, and slavery in the Commissioner's House.

The Olson's found this a fun place for the family to go

I also had a great time

Plenty of good places to stuff a baby for photo opportunities

View from the Commissioner's front door

Beyond the walls of the Keep lays a huge historical site

My sisters (one by choice, crazy girl) on the wall above the prisoner's cells...and a little cave

Also housed in the Keep is Dophin Quest Bermuda, and included in the price of admission to the museum one can view the dolphins and watch free shows.  You can also make the experience a little more personal.  I know a lot of people are concerned about animals in enclosures, it was also my first question.  I had the opportunity to volunteer with Dolphin Quest when the dolphins were calving a few years back, and spent many nights sitting at the side of their pools, watching them play, swim, counting their breaths and watching for contractions (the benefit of shift work is that I could go out after my shift ended at midnight and stay til 4am, just me, a staff member, and the dolphins).  What I saw were happy, interactive, and engaged animals...both at day and night.  I never felt that they were anything other than happy.  And one of my best days on the island was the day I got to go and swim with some of the new mom's, and watch their babies learn...there is such thing as a clumsy dolphin.

Me and Bailey (photo by Dolphin Quest)

What always surprises me about the Royal Naval Dockyards is how large the site actually is.  Outside of everything I have mentioned, there is a lot of space available for use.  Building after building after building waiting to be reclaimed.  Some are currently being refurbished for reopening, and it is one thing I will be sad to miss once I am gone, as the site is absolutely fascinating to me and I would love to see inside some of those buildings when they open.  If you are visiting Bermuda, come to Dockyard early and plan to spend a whole day here.  They also have a weekly market, and many special events over the summer.  And don't forget the dolphins, the experience is quite soulful and worth every penny.

Some of the many buildings not in use

 Overall, there is much to see and do in Dockyard, and as time goes by I think it will get busier and bigger.  It is an absolute must for all visitors to the island, and a treat for us locals.